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NPR > Blog > International Travel > Europe > Italy > Verona: My Proper Romance with Italy’s Loveliest City
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Verona: My Proper Romance with Italy’s Loveliest City

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Last updated: June 17, 2025 9:52 am
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Verona hit me like a sneaky glass of Valpolicella—smooth, warm, and left me buzzing. This gem in Italy’s Veneto region, with its ancient stones, twisty streets, and that Romeo and Juliet charm, is pure magic. My first afternoon, sat in Piazza Bra with a creamy gelato and the Arena looming like a Roman giant, I was already head over heels. For European travellers after a proper dose of history, romance, and Italian soul, Verona’s a belter. Here’s how it reeled me in and why you’ve got to ramble its lanes.

Contents
Why Verona Feels Like a Big Italian SmoochArena di Verona: A Roman BehemothJuliet’s Balcony: Cheesy but CharmingPiazza delle Erbe: Verona’s Buzzing SoulFood That’s a Proper Knees-UpAdige River: Verona’s Romantic RibbonCulture and Veronese CraicPractical Tips for Your Verona TripWhy Verona Sticks With You

Why Verona Feels Like a Big Italian Smooch

I wandered into Verona expecting a bit of Shakespearean fluff, but what I got was a city that’s proper gorgeous without being up itself. It’s got crumbling Roman bits, medieval towers, and a river that glints like it knows it’s a looker. Getting here’s no faff—cheap flights from London, Berlin, or Paris hit Verona’s airport, a quick 15-minute bus to town. Trains from Milan or Venice zip in under an hour, with vineyards and hills flashing past. I went in spring, when the air was all flowers and the streets weren’t mental, but autumn’s got this golden haze, and winter’s misty vibe is dead romantic. Verona’s small enough to mooch about on foot, and every corner’s got a story to whisper.

Arena di Verona: A Roman Behemoth

The Arena di Verona was my first stop, and it proper gave me goosebumps. This massive Roman amphitheatre, plonked in Piazza Bra, is like the Colosseum’s cooler cousin—still hosting operas and concerts like it’s no big deal. I poked around inside, clambering up the worn stone steps and picturing gladiators or soppy arias under the stars. I didn’t catch a show—tickets sell out fast, so book ahead if you’re keen—but the daytime tour was ace, with views over Verona’s red roofs. I grabbed an espresso at a café in the piazza, dodging selfie sticks and watching locals cycle by. The Arena’s Verona’s big hello, and it’s got swagger.

Juliet’s Balcony: Cheesy but Charming

Casa di Giulietta is Verona’s soppy heart, and yeah, it’s a bit touristy, but I couldn’t resist. The courtyard’s packed with love notes stuck to the walls and couples snapping pics under that famous balcony—Shakespeare’s fiction, but who cares? I squeezed through, chuckling at the heart-shaped graffiti, and poked around the house, where old furniture and costumes make it feel like Juliet might pop out. I scribbled a daft note for a laugh and nabbed a gelato—stracciatella, because I’m basic—from a shop round the corner. It’s cheesy as hell, but there’s something sweet about the lovestruck vibe. Verona leans into it, and I was grinning.

Piazza delle Erbe: Verona’s Buzzing Soul

Piazza delle Erbe is where Verona comes to show off. This cracking square, once a Roman market, is all frescoed buildings, market stalls, and a fountain that’s been splashing since forever. I mooched about, nabbing a bag of biscotti from a vendor and dodging artists flogging watercolors. The Torre dei Lamberti was calling, so I climbed it—legs proper wobbling by the top—for a view that floored me: spires, the Adige River, and hills rolling away. At dusk, the square’s bars kick off aperitivo hour, and I sank a spritz while locals yapped around me. Piazza delle Erbe’s got that Italian buzz that makes you want to stay all night.

Food That’s a Proper Knees-Up

Verona’s grub is like a big Veneto hug. I went daft for risotto all’amarone, creamy rice cooked with that lush local red wine, at a little trattoria near the Arena—proper melt-in-your-mouth stuff. The Mercato in Piazza San Zeno was my morning haunt, grabbing fresh figs, slabs of Asiago cheese, and crusty bread for a picnic by the river. Street stalls slung polenta e sopressa, a hearty combo of cornmeal and salami, for a quick bite. For afters, pandoro, Verona’s fluffy golden cake, dusted with sugar, was my downfall. Pair it with a tiny espresso or a glass of Soave white, and you’re eating like a local.

Adige River: Verona’s Romantic Ribbon

The Adige River is what gives Verona its dreamy glow. I wandered along its banks, crossing the Ponte Pietra, this ancient Roman bridge that’s weathered floods and wars and still looks ace. The view—cypresses, pastel houses, and hills—was pure postcard. I puffed my way up to Castel San Pietro one evening, a steep slog but worth it for the sunset view, with Verona twinkling below like a Christmas card. I grabbed a cold beer at a riverside bar and watched boats bob by. The Adige’s where Verona dials down the noise and shows you its soft, sun-kissed side.

Culture and Veronese Craic

Verona’s got a cultural pulse that’s proper proud but never snooty. The Museo di Castelvecchio, a fortress by the river, had me glued to its Veronese paintings and old swords—proper medieval vibes. If you’re here in July, the Arena Opera Festival turns the amphitheatre into a stage for Puccini and Verdi—pure spine-tingling stuff. I loved Via Cappello, a busy street with bars where locals were knocking back spritzes and arguing about football. The Giardino Giusti, a Renaissance garden with manicured hedges and city views, was a quiet gem I stumbled on. Nights in Verona’s osterias, with live mandolin tunes and plates of prosciutto, felt like I’d gatecrashed a mate’s bash.

Practical Tips for Your Verona Trip

  • When to Go: April–May or September–October for cracking weather and fewer crowds. Summer’s hot and lively; winter’s chilly but romantic.
  • Getting There: Fly to Verona Airport (15 minutes from town) from major European cities. Trains from Milan or Venice are quick and scenic.
  • Getting Around: Walk the centre—it’s dead compact. Bikes or buses for farther spots; taxis for late-night hops.
  • Where to Stay: Near Piazza delle Erbe for buzz, by the Adige for dreamy views, or quieter suburbs for a breather.
  • My Tip: Pack sturdy shoes for cobbles and a light jacket for evening breezes. A loud “ciao” gets you grins and maybe an extra biscotto.

Why Verona Sticks With You

Verona’s more than a city—it’s a proper vibe. It’s the fizz of a spritz in a sunny square, the creak of the Arena’s ancient stones, the shimmer of the Adige at dusk. It’s where love stories meet real Italian life, where every meal’s a party, and every alley’s got a tale. For European travellers after a spot that’s easy to hit and tough to wave goodbye to, Verona’s your place. Pack light, ramble its lovestruck streets, and let this Italian gem nick a bit of your soul.

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