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NPR > Blog > International Travel > Europe > Portugal > Coimbra Got Me Good: Why This Portuguese City’s a Keeper
EuropeInternational TravelPortugal

Coimbra Got Me Good: Why This Portuguese City’s a Keeper

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Last updated: June 24, 2025 10:54 am
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Alright, I just rolled back from Coimbra, and I’m still kinda shook. This place, plopped right in the middle of Portugal, is like that random bar you wander into and end up loving. It’s got ancient streets, a university that screams history, and this fado music that hits you right in the gut. If you’re a European traveler itching for a spot that’s not swarming with tourists but still slaps, Coimbra’s your next move. Here’s my ramble on why I’m already missing it, straight from my sore-feet, pastry-crammed self.

Contents
What’s Coimbra’s Deal?Where I Got Lost (In a Good Way)University of Coimbra: Total Wizard VibesOld Town: Where Time Takes a NapMondego River: My Chill SpotFood That Had Me WeakSide Trips for Extra FunMy Coimbra Survival TipsWhy I’m Low-Key Obsessed with Coimbra

What’s Coimbra’s Deal?

Coimbra’s like a time capsule with a pulse. It used to be Portugal’s capital, so it’s got these grand old buildings and stories baked into every corner. But it’s also a university town, so you’ve got students keeping it lively—think late-night bars, graffiti on alley walls, and a vibe that’s chill but never boring. It’s way easier on your wallet than Porto or Lisbon, and the weather’s solid. I was strolling around in a hoodie in spring, no complaints. It’s the kind of place you go to feel like you’ve stumbled on something special.

Where I Got Lost (In a Good Way)

University of Coimbra: Total Wizard Vibes

The University of Coimbra is the main event, and it’s wild. I huffed up this stupidly steep hill—my calves still hate me—and walked into what felt like a Harry Potter set. The Joanina Library blew my mind: old books, fancy woodwork, and, get this, bats that live there to eat bugs. Like, what?! The view from the main square’s insane—red roofs, the Mondego River, the works. I snuck into this tiny chapel nearby, São Miguel, all decked out in gold and tiles, and just stood there, geeked out. If you’re into old stuff or just want a photo that’ll make your mates jealous, you gotta hit this up.

Old Town: Where Time Takes a Nap

Coimbra’s Old Town is where I spent most of my time just… wandering. Narrow streets, houses that look like they’re leaning on each other, and little cafés with old guys sipping coffee and arguing about football. The Old Cathedral (Sé Velha) is this chunky, castle-looking church that’s got serious medieval vibes. I grabbed a custard tart at a random bakery and sat in a plaza, watching kids chase pigeons. It’s the kind of place where you forget your phone exists and just vibe.

Mondego River: My Chill Spot

The Mondego River is where I’d go to decompress. I’d walk along the banks, dodging joggers and dog walkers, and just stare at the water. There’s this park, Parque Verde, where I’d sprawl out with a coffee and a pastel de nata, pretending I lived there. The Pedro e Inês bridge is super cute—named after some tragic love story—and great for sunset pics. At night, I hit a riverside bar and caught some fado. The singer’s voice was so raw I got chills, even though I didn’t understand a word.

Food That Had Me Weak

Coimbra’s food is straight-up comfort in your mouth. I tried chanfana at this tiny spot—goat stew, slow-cooked in wine, so tender it fell apart. I’m still dreaming about it. Another day, I had leitão, this crispy suckling pig that’s crunchy on the outside, juicy inside—pure magic. For cheap eats, I hit Mercado D. Pedro V, a market with stalls stuffed with bread, cheeses, and these sweet tentúgal pastries that I ate way too many of. Wash it down with a Bairrada wine—it’s got a little fizz and goes down easy—or a cold Sagres. If you’re feeling spicy, try a shot of licor beirão. It’s sweet, herby, and gave me a happy buzz.

Side Trips for Extra Fun

Coimbra’s a solid base for day trips. I bussed out to Conímbriga, these Roman ruins that are so well-kept I felt like I was in a gladiator movie. The mosaics are unreal, and it’s like 20 minutes away. Buçaco Forest is another winner—think creepy-cool woods and a palace that looks like a fairytale. For beach vibes, Figueira da Foz is close, with sandy shores and waves for surfing. You can do these in a day and still make it back for a late-night fado fix.

My Coimbra Survival Tips

  • Getting Around: Coimbra’s small enough to walk, but those hills are no joke—wear good shoes. Buses are cheap, and trains are solid for day trips. I rented a bike one day to cruise the river—best decision ever.
  • When to Go: Spring was awesome—sunny, not too hot, and pretty quiet. Autumn’s supposed to be chill too. Summer’s fun but busier, winter’s cheap and calm.
  • Talking to Locals: English works around the university, but I threw out “obrigado” (thanks) or “bom dia” (good morning), and people were stoked.
  • Cash or Card: Euros (€) everywhere. Cards are fine in most places, but I had some coins for markets and random snacks.

Why I’m Low-Key Obsessed with Coimbra

Coimbra’s not just a place you tick off a list—it’s a vibe. It’s the old dude selling chestnuts in a square, the fado that makes you wanna hug someone, the way the river glows at dusk. It’s students arguing over politics in a bar, ancient stones telling stories, and a city that feels like it’s got a heartbeat. Whether you’re nerding out over history, scarfing down stew, or just strolling till you’re lost, Coimbra’s got this warmth that sticks with you.

So, ditch the usual suspects, book that trip, and go get swept up by Coimbra. I’m already scheming my next visit, and I’m betting you’ll be just as smitten.

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