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NPR > Blog > International Travel > Europe > Finland > Turku: My Proper Finnish Fling with a Riverside Star
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Turku: My Proper Finnish Fling with a Riverside Star

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Last updated: June 18, 2025 10:45 am
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Turku reeled me in like a fresh pulla straight from the oven—warm, sweet, and proper moreish. This cracking city on Finland’s southwest coast, sprawled along the Aura River, is a belter with its medieval bones, buzzing waterfront, and a Scandi charm that’s dead easy to love. My first evening, perched on a riverside bench with a cold lonkero, watching the cathedral’s spire catch the sunset, I knew I’d found a gem. For European travellers after a bit of history, culture, and Finnish soul, Turku’s your place. Here’s how it nabbed my heart and why you’ve got to give it a go.

Contents
Why Turku Feels Like Your Best Scandi MateTurku Castle: A Proper Medieval BeastAura River: Turku’s Sparkling SoulFood That’s a Proper Finnish HugTurku Cathedral: A Quiet GiantLuostarinmäki: A Step Back in TimeCulture and Turku’s BuzzPractical Tips for Your Turku TripWhy Turku Sticks With You

Why Turku Feels Like Your Best Scandi Mate

I rocked up in Turku expecting some dusty old capital, but nah, this place is alive, friendly, and proper lush, like a pal who’s got tales to tell but keeps it chill. It’s Finland’s oldest city, dripping with history, yet its uni crowd and artsy vibe keep it young. Getting here’s no bother—cheap flights from London, Berlin, or Stockholm hit Turku Airport, 15 minutes by bus to town. Trains from Helsinki zip in under two hours, with forests and lakes flashing past. I went in spring, when the river was sparkling and the air smelled of lilacs, but summer’s ace for outdoor gigs, autumn’s all golden glow, and winter’s a snowy fairytale. Turku’s dead walkable, and every alley’s got a bit of Nordic craic.

Turku Castle: A Proper Medieval Beast

I kicked things off at Turku Castle, and it proper knocked my socks off. This massive grey fortress by the river’s been standing since the 1200s, looking like it could still fend off a Viking raid. I mooched through its stone corridors, gawping at old swords, fancy banquet halls, and a dungeon that gave me the creeps. The stories of dukes and battles were pure drama, and I loved the quirky bits—like medieval graffiti scratched into walls. I nabbed a runebergintorttu, a crumbly almond cake, at the castle café and scoffed it by a cannon, staring at the water. It’s a cracking few hours, and the castle’s Turku’s gritty, glorious heart.

Aura River: Turku’s Sparkling Soul

The Aura River is Turku’s lifeblood, and I spent half my trip just mooching along its banks. It’s lined with old sailing ships turned pubs, cute cafés, and locals chilling with ice creams. I crossed the Aurasilta bridge, snapping pics of the cathedral’s reflection, and hopped on Föri, a free little orange ferry that’s been shuttling folks across forever—proper cute. I rented a bike to zip further, finding quiet parks with ducks waddling about. One evening, I sank a craft IPA at a floating bar, watching swans glide by and feeling like I’d cracked the Finnish good life. The river’s where Turku lets its hair down, and it’s pure magic.

Food That’s a Proper Finnish Hug

Turku’s grub is like a big, cozy cuddle from a Finnish granny. I went mental for silakkapihvit, fried herring with mash, at a tiny spot by the river—simple but proper lush. The Kauppatori market square was my morning ritual, grabbing rye bread, fresh strawberries, and smoked salmon for a picnic on the grass. Street carts dished up munkki, sugary doughnuts, for a quick sugar hit. For a proper sit-down, poronkäristys, sautéed reindeer with lingonberries, was a belter at a pub near the castle. Dessert? leipäjuusto, squeaky cheese with cloudberry jam, washed down with a tiny kahvi or a cheeky lakka shot. Turku’s food ain’t cheap, but every bite’s a treat.

Turku Cathedral: A Quiet Giant

The Turku Cathedral had me proper gobsmacked. This massive Gothic church, Finland’s holiest spot, towers over the river with its red-brick spire. I wandered inside, neck craned at the soaring ceilings and faded knight tombs, and the silence felt like a warm blanket. The side chapels, stuffed with history, were a nerdy delight, and I caught a free organ recital that gave me goosebumps. It’s free to visit, and I nicked a bench outside to scoff a korvapuusti—cinnamon bun so big it needed its own postcode—from a bakery nearby, watching kids chase pigeons. The cathedral’s Turku’s serene soul, and it’s a must.

Luostarinmäki: A Step Back in Time

Luostarinmäki, an open-air museum, was like stumbling into a Finnish time machine. This hilly patch of wooden houses, saved from Turku’s big fire, feels like an 1800s village froze solid. I mooched down cobbled lanes, poking into workshops where actors played bakers and cobblers—proper charming, like a Scandi storybook. I nabbed a licorice stick from a tiny shop and chatted with a “weaver” about old Turku life. It’s a quick visit but dripping with soul, and the views over the city’s rooftops are a bonus. Luostarinmäki’s where Turku’s past comes to life, and I was smitten.

Culture and Turku’s Buzz

Turku’s got a cultural spark that’s young and scrappy. The Wäinö Aaltonen Museum, by the river, hooked me with its Finnish sculptures—think moody bronze figures and bright abstracts. If you’re here in July, the Ruisrock Festival brings rock and pop to a nearby island—proper mental. I loved Yliopistonkatu, a lively street where bars were rammed with locals knocking back lonkero and yapping about football. The Forum Marinum, a maritime museum with old ships, was a nerdy find for a rainy afternoon. Nights in Turku’s pubs, with live jazz and plates of moose stew, felt like I’d gatecrashed a Scandi mate’s bash.

Practical Tips for Your Turku Trip

  • When to Go: May–June or September–October for cracking weather and fewer crowds. Summer’s ace for river vibes; winter’s snowy and cozy.
  • Getting There: Fly to Turku Airport (15 minutes by bus) from major European cities. Trains from Helsinki are quick and lush.
  • Getting Around: Walk or bike the centre—it’s dead compact. Buses for farther spots; taxis are a bit steep.
  • Where to Stay: By the river for buzz, near the cathedral for history, or suburbs for calm.
  • My Tip: Pack layers for dodgy weather and grippy shoes for cobbles. A loud “hei” gets you grins and maybe an extra bun.

Why Turku Sticks With You

Turku’s more than a city—it’s a proper vibe. It’s the squish of silakkapihvit at a riverside café, the creak of the castle’s stone floors, the ripple of the Aura at dusk. It’s where medieval grit meets Finnish heart, where every meal’s a party, and every view’s a gift. For European travellers after a spot that’s easy to hit and tough to wave goodbye to, Turku’s your place. Pack light, ramble its river paths, and let this Finnish gem nick a bit of your soul.

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