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NPR > Blog > International Travel > Turkey > Ankara: My Surprising Romance with Turkey’s Capital
International TravelTurkey

Ankara: My Surprising Romance with Turkey’s Capital

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Last updated: June 13, 2025 8:57 am
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Ankara snuck up on me like a cracking tune you didn’t expect to love. Turkey’s capital, sitting high on the Anatolian plains, isn’t the first place you think of for a holiday, but that’s exactly why it grabbed me. My first night, knocking back a tiny glass of çay in a lively café with the city lights twinkling below, I felt like I’d stumbled into a place that’s proper alive. For European travellers after a mix of history, culture, and real Turkish vibes, Ankara’s a hidden gem you’ve got to check out. Here’s how it reeled me in and why it’s worth a visit.

Contents
Why Ankara Feels Like a Proper WelcomeAnıtkabir: A Place That Hits You HardKızılay: Where Ankara’s Pulse IsAncient Ankara: History You Can TouchFood That’s a Proper TreatCulture and Local CraicPractical Tips for Your Ankara JauntWhy Ankara Sticks With You

Why Ankara Feels Like a Proper Welcome

I rolled into Ankara thinking it’d be a quick pitstop, but it turned into a proper adventure. This city’s got a buzz—part government hub, part uni town, with history oozing out of every corner. Getting here’s a doddle: cheap flights from London, Berlin, or Amsterdam land at Esenboğa Airport, about a 30-minute cab ride to the centre. Buses from Istanbul or Cappadocia are dead comfy and won’t break the bank either. I went in spring, when the parks were blooming and the air was just right, but autumn’s crisp days are ace too, and winter’s got a cozy, snowy charm. Ankara’s less touristy than Istanbul, so you get a real taste of Turkish life without the crowds.

Anıtkabir: A Place That Hits You Hard

My first stop was Anıtkabir, the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, and it proper floored me. This massive place, with its huge courtyards and stone pillars, feels like Turkey’s heart laid bare. I wandered through the museum inside, checking out Atatürk’s old gear and stories about how modern Turkey came to be—it gave me chills. The changing of the guard was dead solemn, worth catching if you’re there. From the hilltop, you get a cracking view of Ankara stretching out below. It’s free to get in, but go early to beat the school groups. Anıtkabir’s not just a monument—it’s a spot that makes you feel the weight of history.

Kızılay: Where Ankara’s Pulse Is

Kızılay Square is where Ankara’s at its liveliest. This mad busy hub’s full of shops, cafés, and blokes flogging simits—those sesame bread rings—on every corner. I grabbed one and roamed the side streets, poking into bookshops and quirky little stores. At night, Kızılay’s bars and restaurants are heaving with students and locals, passing around plates of meze and sipping rakı. I also liked nearby Çankaya, with its trendier cafés and a more laid-back vibe. It’s the kind of place where you can park yourself with a coffee, watch the world go by, and feel like you’re part of the action.

Ancient Ankara: History You Can Touch

Ankara’s got history that runs proper deep, and I was all over it. The Ankara Citadel up on its hill is a cracking spot—stone walls, tight lanes, and views that’ll knock your socks off. I wandered its cobbled streets past creaky old houses, feeling like I’d gone back a few centuries. Down the hill, the Roman Baths and Temple of Augustus were dead haunting, with their weathered stones telling stories of long-gone empires. The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations nearby was a highlight, stuffed with Hittite carvings and ancient bits and bobs—proper nerd heaven. These places show Ankara’s been a big deal for ages.

Food That’s a Proper Treat

Ankara’s food is like a warm hug on a plate. I went mad for döner kebabs, sliced fresh and stuffed into soft bread, at a little spot in Kızılay. For something heavier, Ankara tava, a sizzling mix of lamb and veg, was a belter. Street stalls were slinging kokoreç—spicy grilled guts—for the brave, and I gave it a go (not half bad!). The Hamamönü market was my morning ritual, nabbing fresh olives, creamy kaymak, and pastries dripping with honey. For afters, baklava with a shot of Turkish coffee was my go-to. Chuck in a glass of ayran, that salty yogurt drink, and you’re eating like a local.

Culture and Local Craic

Ankara’s got a cultural buzz that’s young and proud. The CerModern, a slick art gallery in an old train shed, had me glued to its modern Turkish paintings and oddball installations. If you’re about in April, the Ankara International Film Festival brings a bit of glitz, with films and street buzz aplenty. I loved Hamamönü, with its tarted-up Ottoman houses now full of cafés and craft shops—perfect for a chilled evening. Parks like Gençlik Parkı are where locals picnic and kids muck about, giving the city a proper relaxed heart. The student crowd keeps things lively, with music and laughs spilling out of bars.

Practical Tips for Your Ankara Jaunt

  • When to Go: April–May or September–October for cracking weather and fewer punters. Summer’s warm but doable; winter’s cold but cozy.
  • Getting There: Fly to Esenboğa Airport (30 minutes from town) from major European cities. Buses from Istanbul or Cappadocia are cheap and scenic.
  • Getting Around: Walk Kızılay and the citadel; buses and metros do the rest. Taxis are cheap for longer trips.
  • Where to Stay: Kızılay for the buzz, Çankaya for quieter vibes, or Hamamönü for old-school charm.
  • My Tip: Pack comfy shoes for hilly streets and a light jacket for cool nights. Say “merhaba” (hello) with a grin—it’s a quick way to make mates.

Why Ankara Sticks With You

Ankara’s more than a city—it’s a vibe. It’s the crunch of a simit on a busy corner, the quiet awe of Anıtkabir at dusk, the clink of tea glasses in a smoky café. It’s where ancient history meets modern buzz, where every meal’s a proper feast, and every view sparks a bit of joy. For European travellers after a spot that’s off the usual trail but easy to hit, Ankara’s your place. Pack light, ramble its streets, and let this Turkish capital nick a piece of your heart.

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